Day 18 – Wastwater, Lake District

19 November

Today we planned to dive Wastwater, located in Wasdale on the western edge of the Lake District National Park. Several local divers had recommended it to us, not only for its beauty but also because it’s England’s deepest lake, reaching 79 metres. For safety reasons, we weren’t going anywhere near those depths, but we were excited to explore the upper layers of the lake.

We’d seen snow in the forecast yesterday, and on the drive to Wastwater we watched the hills and mountains ahead grow increasingly white. At first, we joked that this couldn’t possibly be where we were heading, but as we got closer, it was clear that it was exactly where we were going! The scenery was breathtaking: mountains towering above us, steep valleys, and narrow roads winding across the valley floor.

For the first time on the trip, we felt a little apprehensive. The air temperature was just 2°C, and the forecast said with windchill it felt like -3°C and honestly, it felt even colder. This was our first real taste of winter diving. We parked near the lake, relieved to spot a small café nearby where we could warm up afterwards. As we got kitted up, a group of curious hikers stopped to check we were okay, clearly wondering who would willingly go diving on a day like this!

At the surface, the water temperature was 9°C, rising slightly to 10°C as we descended. The visibility was exceptional around 15 metres, the best we’ve had so far on the trip. The winter sunshine cut through the clear water beautifully, though it darkened with depth.

In the upper layers we found patches of aquatic plants, including quillwort, which thrives in Wastwater’s nutrient-poor environment. Beyond about 20 metres, the lakebed flattened into a thick layer of mud, and aquatic life was sparse, just as we’d been told to expect. Still, the calmness and clarity of the dive made it a memorable experience. We stayed down for about 50 minutes, reaching a maximum depth of 20 metres.

Although there wasn’t a huge amount to see underwater, we both enjoyed the sense of peace that came with diving in such dramatic surroundings. The combination of crystal-clear water, snowy peaks, and the silence of the lake made it feel like a truly special place.

Afterwards, we made straight for the café we’d spotted earlier. The staff must have taken pity on us, because they served us what we both agreed were the best hot chocolates of the trip so far. We chatted with them about The Great Scuba Drive, and in return they shared local stories and insights about the area. Feeling warm again, we headed back to our campsite to get ready for tomorrow’s dive and to catch up on neglected emails.

Today was a reminder of how different, and how rewarding, winter diving can be. The cold was biting, and there wasn’t much aquatic life to see, but the clarity, stillness, and beauty of Wastwater made it unforgettable.