Day 21 – Beadnell Point, Northumberland

22 November

On our social media, a few people have questioned our sanity in choosing to spend a month diving from Cornwall to Scotland in November and, to be fair, it’s a good question! So we thought we’d take a moment to explain how this adventure came about.

We’re both part of the dive team at Porthkerris Divers in Cornwall. Rico is a specialty instructor, and Sophie is a Dive Master. When the dive season ended in late October, we wanted to complete our HSE Scuba certification. We discovered that Puffin Dive Centre in Oban had availability at the beginning of December, so we decided to turn the journey north into a diving road trip using the opportunity to highlight UK diving, especially in winter, along the way.

Of course, one of the biggest challenges of diving at this time of year is the weather. While we started with a rough plan and a few fixed dates to meet other divers, we’ve had to stay flexible often deciding where to dive just a day or two in advance.

One of the sites we were really hoping to dive was the Farne Islands in Northumberland. It’s a bucket-list location for many UK divers, but we always knew it might be difficult in November. Out of season, very few boats run trips, and the wind direction was against us today, making it impossible. It was a real disappointment, but we’ve promised ourselves we’ll come back whether on the return journey or another time.

Despite missing the Farnes, we’ve been completely captivated by Northumberland’s rugged beauty, its unspoiled coastline, wild seas, and sense of remoteness. So today, we chose a more sheltered site: Beadnell Point, a rocky reef that extends into the sea. It’s a popular shore dive, and its protection from the wind made it the perfect choice for us.

The air temperature was around 7°C, with the sea at 11°C. We had a long surface swim before reaching deeper water, but unfortunately, visibility was poor. The sandy seabed was easily disturbed, making photography tricky.

What stood out most today was the sheer number of hermit crabs. Rico was delighted as they’ve always been one of his favourites. He’s fascinated by how they reuse empty shells, moving house as they grow and passing smaller shells down the line, sometimes forming a queue of crabs all waiting for their next home. He also loves how they peek out from their shells with those curious eyes.

It was one of those dives that reminded us to slow down and notice the smaller things, the tiny, intricate lives that make up the ecosystem. When you take the time to really look, even hermit crabs are stunning, with delicate blue markings and complex behaviours. We also spotted limpets gliding across the rocks, using their muscular foot to move simple but fascinating to watch.

After a short while, the visibility dropped even further, and Rico started to experience an issue with one of the seals on his drysuit. We decided to call the dive early and head back to shore.

Even though conditions weren’t ideal, today felt like a celebration of the often- overlooked marine species, the quiet, hard-working creatures that usually go unnoticed. It took us back to long hours spent photographing Cornish rockpools. Last year, as part of a university project, Sophie even designed and built an underwater fibre-optic torch in her bedroom (and tested it in a bucket on her bathroom floor!) to highlight these tiny wonders and make “stars” out of the small things.

Today reminded us that not every dive has to be dramatic to be memorable. Sometimes, it’s about noticing the quiet details, the way a hermit crab swaps shells, or a limpet glides slowly across stone. Those moments connect us to the rhythm of marine life just as much as encounters with bigger creatures do.

It also reinforced how adaptable diving in the UK needs to be. The weather doesn’t always cooperate, but there’s always something to appreciate if you stay curious and flexible. Even without the Farnes, Northumberland gave us a dive full of charm and

character, a small reminder that beauty often hides in the details.